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by Sam Chen, 1980 Memories of the recent summer's end journey to the People's Republic of China by members and friends of CAPA (Chinese Adventist Physicians' Association) are still fresh, but (mortality in evidence) fading. I write in hopes of recapturing the flavor of the trip and beg the indulgence of fellow travelers for errors of commission or omission, as the case may be. Despite the relative brevity of the experience (3 weeks plus or minus a few days), it is difficult to begin. To distill the dozens of one's mental images into words is not easy. We sampled but a fraction of the vastness that is China, but being totally immersed in its culture, there was much that we saw, heard and felt. For those of us with natal and/or cultural ties, there was a particularly poignancy, a palpable thrill in discovering our roots. My sister and I were among these. It was a highlight (there were many) to meet for the first time relatives of whom we knew little, whose existence but for the trip would have remained a dim recollection pieced together from letters. And to realize that a quirk of fate /Providence was all that prevented our lives from being intertwined in the same country (there or here) many years ago, or even kept our roles from being reversed - this was sobering. Chronology affords order. Having been to Hong Kong before (albeit over a decade ago), we found it mostly a parenthesis around our journey into China, though we did meet additional relatives who had fled the mainland. It also provided a nice respite before returning Stateside, as well as an opportunity to contrast people and commerce in Hong Kong vis-a-vis China. The train from Kowloon to Canton (Guangchow) was delightful. I was amused to find that the Chinese were not above a little decadence. The train had comfortable, adjustable seats, lace curtains and on board TV. However, this was not typical of travel by train within China. The border fence, while a far cry from the Iron Curtain, served as a silent, grim reminder that freedom as we know it is a rarity throughout the world. Guangchow was not one of my favorite cities. It was probably the aggregate of the aggressive hawkers of long-an (small fruit resembling cross between a grape and onion in taste), the less-than-superb cuisine (as compared with other parts of the country), and the fact this was the only time and place we were accosted by a beggar. Maybe it was culture shock. It was interesting to discover how much of what we had read before coming was still true; much certainly wasn't. I had never taken pictures in a country with so many people. Despite precautions, many slides were to return from Kodak with people and their appendages interposed between camera lens and intended subject. Hangchow was lovely. The blue-gray mist, the delicate pink of the lotus flowers, the sycamore-lined streets, and the ghostlike figures of workers performing tai-chi chuan at dawn - these evoke a scene justifying inclusion of Hangchow on the list of the 3 most beautiful spots in China (other two: Soochow and Guilin). The people were as friendly and open (unexpectedly and happily so) as any we encountered in the country. We found them anxious to discuss English, wiling to speak of politics and religion (we may have been more guarded than they), and wild about what emerged from our Polaroid SX-70! The potential of China and her people is enormous. The craftsmanship, the order, the dedication, the general cheerfulness despite a relatively hard lot - these were impressive, and, depending upon one's perspective, potentially frightening. A word about living conditions. I
used ‘relatively'
above because those who have seen Calcutta realize that Indians who are
born, live and die on the streets would likely be glad for the
accommodations
of a Chinese commune dweller. However, by our standards, they are
Spartan - limited space, sparse furnishings (no icebox is the rule),
often
no running (not to mention hot) water, sometime communal toilet, no
air-conditioning.
There is no private ownership of cars or homes. Other notable
comparisons
were: limited income, costly merchandise, six-day work week, necessity
in summer of purchasing food daily and washing clothing by hand.
Life seemed largely occupied with existing. However, what leisure
activities there are, such as theater, plays decrying the old feudal
system
and musical programs, seem to be widely enjoyed. Most people
seemed
content, if not happy. Fortunately, the human animal is quite
adaptable,
though to go from very much to very little would likely be difficult.
Shanghai evokes many memories. My favorite is the Children's Palace, where the future elite of China come. There one sees children excel in a variety of activities - ping-pong, calligraphy, dancing and music. Anyone with doubt as to China's future should visit here. The riverboat ride to see the Yangtze, one of China's great rivers, contained the contrasts of small and great (tug nestled against an oceangoing steamer) and the old and not-so-old (dilapidated junk and Navy destroyer). There were many displays of arts and crafts. We saw makers of carpets, cloissone, cinnabar, and perfume bottles and watched workers in jade, ivory, metal and pottery. Prices, while fixed by the government, varied somewhat throughout the land. One often does as well in Hong Kong (including the Communist store).
This being (officially or unofficially) a medical tour, there were visits to hospitals and with hospital officials, physicians and other personnel. Some auld acquaintances were renewed, other friendships made. We were treated well - not unlike our entire tour experience - with graciousness, friendliness, courtesy and, of course, tea. Hospitals in Shanghai, Beijing and lesser cities were visited. We observed a level of medical care which, at its best, seemed quite comparable to that in the U.S. As in other fields, China lacks technology but not manpower. As a radiologist, I was favorably impressed with the standard of radiologic practice (which necessarily requires considerable technology). While the Chinese purchase much of their machinery abroad, they tend to maintain much of it themselves. Their diseases are not so different than ours, though they have less coronary artery disease and more strokes. Life expectancy in the larger metropolitan areas approaches ours. We witnessed acupuncture, though less than expected. As anesthesia, it is used in a minority of surgeries performed in larger teaching hospitals. We saw little in the way of traditional Chinese medicine being practiced.   Lest I forget (how could one forget?), the food was, in general, very good. At best it was superb (this from a non-gourmand), at worst somewhat disappointing. The variety indicated the Chinese do well with what is available. In particular, the Buddhists have such a knack for concocting meat substitutes. The Western fare was less than totally satisfying. Xian was the farthest inland we
journeyed.
With its compound walls, roadside vendors and dusty air, it was
reminiscent
of Afghanistan (where I spent two years). The archaeological
excavations,
nicely described in the May ‘80 issue of the Reader's Digest (page 94),
were truly fascinating.
Beijing - what a place! One cannot do justice in a short description - it would require much more time (our guidebook recommends spending a month in the city). Three days were insufficient - enough to taste, but not savor, the Forbidden City (where commoners once entered on pain of death), the Great Wall (one of two man-made objects on earth visible on satellite pictures) and other historical and cultural delights. China, recognizing potentially staggering problems incident to overpopulation, currently has the world's most successful population-control program, based upon economic incentives. Virtually all methods of birth control are available.  Guilin was the last major stop - and a nice ending. Unfortunately, our flight was delayed and we were unable to journey far enough down the river to see the trained fishing cormorants, but what we did see was, to me, another highlight. Truly one of the more picturesque spots in China, with a lazy river winding among incredible and bizarre land formations. There is so much more; we have just nibbled on the fortune cookie. The acrobatics, the magic shows, the musicals with their lavish sets, the incessant buzzing of the cicadas, carabao in rice paddies - I could go on and on. Mercifully, I won't. Our group was blessed by being composed of individuals with humor, conviviality and general good spirits, for which I was grateful. We felt like part of one large family. I hope this may have, in a small way,
whetted your
appetite. If you get a chance, go to China - it's a mind-opener.   
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