AFGHANISTAN: 1966-1968
A PHOTO RETROSPECTIVE
Afghanistan, once known as "The Switzerland of Asia," a country the fabled Silk Route (from
Europe to Central Asa) and Marco Polo traversed, a place where conquerors like Alexander the
Great, Genghis Khan and Tamerlane left their mark, has been war-torn for decades. A land-locked
country roughly the size of Texas (about 250,000 sq. mi.), it has been newsworthy since 2001
because of training camps for Al Qaeda, financed by terrorist Osama bin Laden.
I was privileged to live and work there for 2 years in the late 1960s, well before the Soviets
invaded the country in 1979. Despite their proximity (the former USSR and Afghanistan
share a common border), the Soviets were unable to conquer Afghanistan. They withdrew
after a decade of unsuccessful conquest. Some obsevers believe the Soviets' lack of success
in Afghanistan contributed to the ultimate breakup of the former USSR in 1991.
The colors of the country's flag are black, red, and green, signifying times of bleakness,
bloodshed, and prosperity. respectively. In recent years, there has been little of the latter.
In 1969, the country was divided into 28 provinces, the names of some of which are legible
here. Nomads, who wandered about the country, numbered approximately 2.5 million,
or 15%, of a total populaton of 16.5 million.
The map inset shows which countries border Afghanistan. To the west is Iran, to the south and
east is Pakistan. To the north is the former USSR. To the northeast is a small sliver of China
and Kashmir. This pre-1966 map shows 29 provinces. A dominant feature of topography is
the great central range of mountains which run roughly east-west. In its highest portion,
the Hindu Kush ('Hindu Killers') peaks rise to a height of close to 20,000 ft, with the highest peak
exceeding 25,000 feet. In its central portion, the country is divided into four main divisions,
depending on four major rivers (poorly appeciated on the map). Red lines indicate roads.
Transportation about the country is by only two means: road or air.
There are no railroads and practically no navigable rivers.
Runway at Kabul Airport. Summer, 1966. The airport, at an altitude of 5900 feet, accommodated
jet aircraft, including twice weekly flights from Tehran and Aeroflot planes from the then USSR.
The national airline was Ariana Afghan Airlines, which operated some prop-driven DC-6s.
Pan-Am (since defunct) owned just under 50% of Ariana at the time.
A number of foreign countries had an interest and presence in Afghanistan. Two principal ones were
the USA and the former USSR. Some of their projects almost overlapped. This airport was built
by the Russians. The airport in a major southern city, Kandahar, was built by the Americans. Some
roads and hotels were built by Russians, some by Americans. Russia's interest may have been
primarily in Afghanistan's natural resources. Natural gas pipelines ran from Afghanistan to Russia.
The USA's interest may have been more strategic geography. It is not a great distance between
Afghanistan and Pakistan. Peshawar, Pakistan, not far from that country's western border, was home
to a U.S. Air Force base, from whence pilot Francis Gary Powers embarked on a U2 covert mission.
The downing of Powers and the U2 by a Soviet missile in 1960 created an international crisis
and American embarrassment. Ironically, Powers survived the missile hit (he was exchanged for
Soviet spy Rudolph Abel in 1962), only to perish in a television news helicopter accident
in 1977 in the U.S.
The Marco Polo sheep is prized by game hunters. It inhabits mountainous terrain and high altitudes.
I never saw one in the wild. On the other hand, I never visited the Wakhan Corridor, the narrow
northeastern strip that borders China and Kashmir, which is where these sheep are likely
most plentiful. This fine specimen graced one wall of a waiting room in the Kabul Airport.
Kabul, Afghanistan's capital, lies in the northeastern part of the country. Its population at the time
was probably close to a million. Rimmed by mountains, it's somewhat drab, particularly during
the summertime. Note how the Kabul River winds through the city. View from Sherdawaza
mountain range above the city.
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